Thinking of living in Spain? After 13 weeks exploring the Costa Blanca and the hinterland of Alicante, we learned that finding “the perfect place” is harder than it looks
In January this year, we set off to Spain, searching for the perfect place to live. After just over 3 months, we can now conclude: this road will not be an easy one.
We chose the Costa Blanca, as we had visited before and liked the vibe. Sure, it has Benidorm — but what in life is ever perfect? The Marina Alta, with its charm, beautiful scenery, and cute towns, drew us in. We are not alone; the area is full of North Europeans who, like us, sought a different lifestyle — warmer, cheaper, or simply something new.
However, it seems we might have missed the boat, both financially and culturally. Spain has almost disappeared from this area, taken over by the Dutch and the Brits.
So, we decided to head further south and explore the hinterland around Villajoyosa and Alicante. We already checked out Castalla, Ibi, and Tibi — but for many reasons, it wasn’t our thing. One reason being the altitude of 700 meters: higher means colder, especially in winter — and escaping the cold was the whole idea!
Exploring the Alicante Hinterland: Aspe, Novelda, Monóvar, and More
This time, we picked an area right in Alicante’s backyard: Aspe, Novelda, Monóver, Monforte, and Agost. Quite an ambitious list for one day, but we managed to visit them all — and were left feeling exhausted and a bit disillusioned.
Our first stop was Aspe, with around 20,000 inhabitants. Parking was easy, and the centre pleasantly surprised us. It ticked many of our “must-have” boxes: a market, lively cafés on every corner, a gorgeous square with a lovely church, lush trees, a few cafés, and a pretty park with a fountain. I could easily imagine bubbly summer nights here. We had an excellent coffee — just €1.30 — and noticed we were likely the only English speakers around. Full of hope, we moved on!
Imagine balmy summer nights…..
Only 4 or 5 km down the road was Novelda. Again, parking was easy, but the first impression was very different. Street after street of parked cars, a random shop here and there, but not much else. No cute cafés, no hidden nooks, no real centre. Eventually, we found a square with a church and a few attractive pedestrian streets — but it all felt a bit empty, lacking soul. Surprising, as Novelda is bigger than Aspe, with 27,000 inhabitants.
According to some – a lively town
Monóvar, Monforte, and Agost: Hopes and Realities
Onwards to Monóvar, a town of just over 12,000 people. Again, it had the same uninspiring grid of streets. The historical centre was worth a walk — lots of steps, a scenic church, a castle, and plenty of cats. Yet again, there wasn’t much soul. Not many cosy cafés or spots to enjoy our picnic lunch. A Spanish lady asked me if I liked their “pretty town” — I wasn’t sure what to say.
A hike up to the church was part of the deal
We quickly drove through Monforte without stopping — it didn’t feel like we needed to see more — and finally arrived in Agost. At 376 meters altitude and just under 5,000 inhabitants, Agost is quite a cute town. It has a long pottery tradition, with 11 active potteries and even a pottery walking trail. All in all, not bad — but again, it didn’t quite pull us in either.
Town of potteries
By then, we decided we had earned a sunny terrace and a cold beer.
Final Thoughts: A Challenging Search
Our verdict? This area has some decent towns, but the immediate surroundings are less attractive. The valley is wide and flat, and although the towns sit lower (300–400 meters) than Castalla and Ibi (700 meters), the landscape felt somewhat desolate. There are many quarries, mines, and marble industries around Novelda and Monóver, making the surroundings messy and dry — less trees, more bush.
Interestingly, AI and some travel blogs seem more positive about this area. Maybe they see it through the eyes of a tourist? We are exploring these places to live year-round, which is a very different lens.
Aspe? I would consider visiting again — it showed potential. Agost? Too small, and likely touristy in summer. The others? They didn’t convince me.
Call me difficult, but it has to feel right — this might be our last move after all!
This week, I visited Benidorm, a place that was never even close to making my travel wish list. But when you’re staying nearby and you’d like to form an actual opinion—not just repeat what others say—you kind of have to do it!
Yes, really….Benidorm.
The ever changing skyline of Albir, Benidorm and Altea.
We’re currently staying near Altea, and from where we are, Benidorm’s high-rise skyline is clearly visible on the horizon. It actually reminds me a bit of the Gold Coast in Australia which we have seen plenty of times when our kids grew up. I have taken a few photos of that skyline, and it genuinely seems to change every time we look at it—light, weather, mood—it’s always a little different.
After three weeks of watching it from afar, we finally decided to take a closer look. It was Good Friday—always a bit of a wildcard when it comes to outings. But the drive in turned out to be less hectic than expected. Honestly, we expected a slow procession of cars heading for the center, but this time, it was smooth sailing.
A Few Quick Facts About Benidorm:
It has a population of just under 75 k.
In summer, that number skyrockets to over 400k—possibly to levels best described as “bursting at the seams.”
Facilities? Let’s just say, if you need it, Benidorm probably has it.
First impressions
As we approached the town, our first impression was that it looked like a typical Spanish city. You don’t immediately see the towering high-rises unless you catch a glimpse down one of the side streets. We managed to park in a covered garage quite close to the center—plenty of spaces and no stress.
From there, we strolled towards the beach, aiming to find the “old town” that several people had recommended. We wandered through a few lively streets, passed numerous shops and cafés, and eventually arrived at the beachfront. But somewhere along the way, we seemed to have missed what we thought would be a quaint, historic district.
Where is the old town?
It’s possible that we expected something similar to Altea’s old town, with cobbled lanes, flower-draped balconies, and a certain charm. What we found was more of a bustling commercial hub—restaurants, pubs, souvenir shops, and everything in between. It certainly caters to the crowds, which, judging by the numbers, it handles with ease.
Peace and quiet! Not on this beach…..
And speaking of crowds… the beach was absolutely packed. It honestly reminded me of Bondi Beach in Sydney on Christmas Day which we experienced before having kids. The weather was glorious, and clearly, everyone had the same idea.
We continued exploring and discovered another bay just around the headland—again, wall-to-wall sunseekers. In between is a lovely lookout point, a mirador built on the site of what was once a castle. It offered stunning views of the coast either way and was clearly a popular photo stop.
El Mirador de Benidorm – one of the city’s landmarksLooking south towards Alicante
Benidorm’s shopping streets are extensive, with a mix of local and international brands. And like Alicante, it has ‘eat streets’—entire stretches where one restaurant follows another. While exploring those, we noticed something interesting: tapas and pintxo bars were mostly filled with locals and Spanish holidaymakers, while the establishments serving fry-ups, burgers, and pizzas had a distinctly North European clientele.
Benidorm – final thoughts!
We spent a few hours in Benidorm and came away slightly surprised—and a little amused—by our experience. Would I choose to holiday there? No, not really. But oddly enough, I wouldn’t mind spending some time there under the right circumstances.
This could entice me for another visit!!
Here’s why:
In the city center, you’re not really aware of the skyscrapers or the overcrowded beaches.
If you find the local spots, you’re surrounded by Spanish speakers and tasty spanish food, not sunburnt tourists on a mission.
And if you look past the obvious tourist zones, it starts to feel like a regular Spanish town—one where people live, work, and go about their day.
One thing to be clear about: we visited during Easter. I’m not sure I’d be quite as relaxed about the idea if it were peak summer.
Would I return in July or August to find out? Let’s just say—I’m quite happy not knowing.
🧐 Handy Tip: If you’re driving in, aim for the parking garages near the center—they’re easier and less stressful than circling endlessly in the heat.
I’m 60+, I work online (still on UK hours), and I’ve started flirting with the idea of moving to Spain. Not just more sun, coast or inland, but a different scene and the chance to get an Australian pension as that will never happen in La France! Spain, especially the Costa Blanca, kept showing up in that new vision.
While I am writing this, we have been in Spain three months and literally only scraped the surface with our research. One of the questions that keeps on hitting us is” Should we live by the coast or inland? They’re close on the map—but offer totally different vibes.
🌊 Life on the Coast: Breezes, Buzz, and Barefoot Days
There’s something instantly seductive about the coast. Just imagine early morning walks on the beach followed by a coffee with sea views. In other words a gentle buzz of life that feels just right.
In towns like Altea, Moraira, or Calpe, life flows around beach promenades, cafés, markets, and marina views. It’s easy to settle in, easy to meet people, and easy to romanticise. (Because it is romantic.)
What I like about coastal life is the walkability, the sense of community and constant ‘sea’ inspiration. If speaking Spanish is still a work in progress, English-speaking support is usually more available if you need it.
Coast or inland – what appeals more?
Being able to pop out for a beach walk on a work day, gives you that “mini-holiday” energy. Usually you’ll have quick access to restaurants, events, and social life
But here’s the catch! It will get crowded in high season and property prices and rents are higher. Many of the coastal towns feel more expat than España and supermarkets are stocked with marmite, Dutch bread rolls and German sausage.
🌄 Inland: Tranquility, Tradition, and Real Spanish Life
Then if you drive 30–40 km inland, the whole mood shifts! You find hidden villages surrounded by almond groves, terraced hills, and views that stretch for days. It’s quiet, slow, honest, Spanish and you may need some Spanish vocab.
Towns like Jalon, La Nucia and Finestrat offer a real chance to get a taster of a more authentic Spain.
What I love about it is the peace, space and the sky. You have to see the sky to believe it. There is more affordable housing with character and often more land! Sometimes a bit too much because really, what would you want with 10 hectares.
Inland you live more like the Spanish locals do, it has more seasonal living and locals still say ‘Buenes’ and mostly mean it.
But you need to be okay with having a car, in fact you’ll need one! There are fewer restaurants and fewer or no options for shopping. It could be hotter in the summer but you’ll have cooler nights and no humidity.
“Inland feels like returning to yourself. No fuss—just life, a little slower.”
So coast or inland… What’s right for me?
My gut feeling says maybe both. Considering my age, one thing stands out and that is proximity to medical help. We have learned that distance is not always the issue as a motorway allows you to do 40km in a whizz. On the other hand a town only 15 km inland could be impossible to navigate. Especially when the road is steep, windy and dangerous at night.
So we are still exploring and listening to our bodies and calendars but I’ll say this! If you want to stay connected with like minded souls and be more cushioned, the coast has your back. If you want simplify and go deeper, inland might just feel like coming home as long as it is accessible.
What about you – coast or inland?
If you’re thinking about a lifestyle reset—whether it’s a full move or just a season—maybe this is the nudge. I’ll keep sharing my journey, the wins and wobblies alike.
Next up? “Rent or Buy in Spain: What Makes Sense When You’re 60+ and Still Working?”
Follow along, ask questions and dream with me. Although this chapter is mine, it could be yours too.
After two months in Moraira, Marina Alta, we set our sights further south, hoping to find a rental in or near Villajoyosa. We even had our eye on a charming old-town apartment in the heart of the city—but we missed out. And so, the search continued.
To find a rental through Facebook groups
Our first rental in Moraira came from a Facebook group, and thankfully, it turned out to be a genuine listing. So when another opportunity popped up on a different Facebook page, we were hopeful.
A guy reached out via Messenger, offering an apartment in Villajoyosa. He asked for my email to send more details and photos—not an unusual request, but in today’s world, a little caution goes a long way.
After some prompting, he sent over 10 photos and a detailed description. It all looked great. I asked for pricing, deposit details, and any additional fees. That’s when the red flag popped up—he wanted a 40% deposit upfront, nearly €600.
Colourful houses in Villa Joiosa
Something felt off. I asked for proof of a tourist license, reviews, or any official listing. Silence. No response. Suspicious, I did a reverse search for the apartment and found it listed on Airbnb—for over €100 per night—under a Dutch female owner. Classic scam.
Can you trust anyone these days? It’s hard to say.
Avoiding Rental Scams: The Banana Trick
When negotiating our Moraira rental, the owner had never rented it out before and had no tourist license. But they offered a video call to explain the situation and even lowered the deposit to ease our concerns. That gave us confidence, and thankfully, it all worked out.
A fellow renter once told me a brilliant trick: Ask the owner to take a picture standing inside the rental holding a banana. If they refuse or make excuses, run! It might sound silly, but it’s a simple way to confirm the listing is real.
No colour restrictions here…..
The Hidden World of Rental Agents
Many Facebook rental groups claim to be for homeowners and renters only, but the reality is quite different. The majority of “owners” are actually agents, cleverly disguising themselves until you decline the first property—at which point, they suddenly have plenty of options.
Meanwhile, well-known Spanish rental sites are notorious for not responding to inquiries. They live up to that reputation flawlessly. And when you do get a response, it’s often from an agent, not a direct owner. The site itself has no real control over customer service, so you’re left waiting, often indefinitely.
Key Takeaways
To find a rental in Spain is proving much harder than we hoped and we learned a few things:
Trust but verify – Always ask for proof like a tourist license, reviews, or an official listing. High deposits can be a red flag.
Use the “banana trick” – Ask the owner for a photo inside the rental holding a random object. A quick way to spot scammers!
Many “owners” are actually agents – Many Facebook listings come from agents, not direct homeowners. Be prepared for upselling.
Be flexible – The ideal house may not exist, so adjusting expectations can make the search easier.
Always different than the neighbours….
Rethinking the ‘Dream Rental’
Our vision of the ideal house in Villajoyosa is slipping away, and we’ve had to adjust our criteria. Now, we’re open to places that are less than perfect—as long as they’re available and legitimate!
With one month left to secure our next home, we remain hopeful. The ideal house might not exist exactly as we imagined, but we’ll find something that works.
After a couple of weeks in Moraira, we’re starting to see a pattern. Life on the coast is very much an expat scene, while inland Spain offers a more authentic Spanish experience. In this post, I want to share our impressions of a few inland towns we visited.
These towns have a few things in common. They are functional Spanish towns with real amenities—medical services, schools, town halls, council offices, and businesses that cater to local life rather than tourism. Just Spanish life as it is.
Market Towns in Inland Spain
We explored Benissa, Gata de Gorgos, Pedreguer, and Pego. One thing we noticed: they all have lively weekly markets. Benissa’s market is on Saturdays, Gata de Gorgos on Fridays, Pedreguer hosts a rastro every Sunday morning, and Pego’s market takes place on Thursdays.
Since we love markets, having one nearby is a must. In France, our weekly market ritual includes fresh fruit and veggie shopping, a café stop, and the occasional run-in with familiar faces. It’s a tradition we’re not willing to give up.
Little cafes everywhere
The Feel of Inland Spain
Walking through these Spanish towns, we were struck by how clean and well-kept they are. Small shops and bars are tucked away, buzzing with local life. You won’t get far with English or other foreign languages, but the locals are friendly, quick to greet you, and happy to chat or help—giving my very basic Spanish some much-needed practice!
A few weeks ago, we met someone living in Moraira who was house-hunting in Pedreguer. More space, better value, and a different pace of life drew her inland. Funny enough, we later spotted her viewing a house right on the town’s main square!
An Unexpected Conversation
While wandering Pedreguer’s streets, a local man struck up a conversation, asking if I liked the town. When I said I was Dutch, he went off on how Dutch buyers were pushing up house prices, making it harder for locals to afford homes. I’m not sure why he singled out the Dutch—we’re far from the only ones—but I get it. It’s a common issue in sought-after regions.
Street of Pedrequer
All these towns are in the Marina Alta, within 25 km of the coast but not all coastal areas are equally charming. We took a 20-minute drive from Pego to the nearest beach. The sandy, wide coastline was beautiful, but surprisingly quiet. No chiringuitos, no tucked-away beach bars—just a strip of road lined with restaurants, bars, and summer attractions that probably come alive in peak season.
After taking it all in, we wrapped up the day with a meal at one of our favorite spots in Denia. Reflecting on our inland tour, we realized we really liked the towns we’d seen. We could see ourselves living near a place like this.
Marina Alta: A Strong Contender
The Marina Alta is definitely growing on us. It has that perfect blend of authenticity, coastal proximity, and everyday livability. While none of the towns we visited screamed WOW, Benissa stood out as a place with real potential. This region is starting to feel like home, and we’re excited to dig deeper and see if it’s where we truly belong.
Denia – not a bad place at all!Benissa – a Spanish working town with a lovely old centreWandering old town Pego
Key Takeaways:
Inland towns feel more authentic and Spanish than the coast.
Markets are an important feature for us.
Locals are welcoming, but you need to speak some Spanish.
Coastal areas vary—some are lively, others can feel deserted offseason.
Benissa stands out, but we’ll keep exploring!
What do you think? Do you prefer coastal or inland life? Drop a comment below—I’d love to hear your thoughts!
On another note, if you like my pictures, you can find more in my new Etsy shop.
