Discovering Maserof: A Hidden Gem Without Electricity – Week 8
One of the things I love about exploring new areas is discovering hidden gems—whether it’s a tucked-away restaurant, a cute little bar, or even a scenic cave perfect for a picnic. I’m sure most people have had such moments, and this time, we certainly did.
A Bar Full of Dutch Nostalgia
It all started when we were wandering through Moraira, looking for a nice beer after a day of exploring. We passed a strip of Dutch-style bars—plenty of those around here. The first one looked heaving, so we skipped it, only to return later when the others seemed dull in comparison.
We ended up in a lively Dutch bar, surrounded by locals belting out Dutch bar songs at the top of their lungs. It instantly transported me back to my twenties in the Netherlands, where such scenes were common and always fun. I told my husband that standing and singing on bar stools was part of the tradition, and sure enough, it wasn’t long before it happened!
The Journey to Maserof
An English woman at the bar told us about an inland place called Maserof, not far from Jalon. Intrigued, we set off on a 20-minute uphill drive through the Sierra Bernia mountains, passing a donkey farm along the way. Eventually, we arrived at a tiny hamlet discovering not one but three bustling restaurants side by side – Maserof, Verd i Vent and Casa Susi.
To our surprise, Maseroff had no electricity. Everything ran on generators, and they used old-fashioned notebooks for the bills—no tills, no internet, no mobile reception. You could make a reservation via WhatsApp, but the owners only responded once back home.
It was a Sunday afternoon, and all three restaurants were packed, serving set menus. The first, Maserof, was also a winery and museum. Its main door appeared locked, and it was hard to get a peek inside, though the sound of live music (obviously battery-powered) drifted out. The other two restaurants had inviting outdoor seating and the surrounding fields were filled with cars and campervans.
Discovering an Unforgettable Dining Experience
We decided to book a table at Maserof and returned a week later. The experience was something else. All guests began the afternoon in a beautiful outdoor area with sweeping views, sipping on ‘vino caliente’ (mulled wine). The menu price included home produced wine and mulled wine but not other drinks, making my zero beer and sparkling water the most expensive beverages we’d had in the region
At a set time, the owner, Carolina—of English and Spanish descent—welcomed us and gave a fascinating tour of the museum and kitchen. The kitchen itself was remarkable, as everything was prepared by candlelight and cooked on gas. Among the antiques on display were original Alhambra wall tiles, a reminder of how different things were in Spain during the ‘60s and ‘70s.
Carolina shared how her British father, Peter Pateman, bought the 17th-century property in the ‘70s and began restoring it. Some original Roman structures remained intact. Today, it includes various rooms, accommodations with Napoleon-sized beds for overindulgent guests, and a museum filled with artifacts that really belong in a national collection.
Music, Food, and Unexpected Performances
The five-course meal was an event in itself. The cold starters had already been prepared, waiting to be served to about fifty guests. Some were regulars, while others, like us, were first-timers.
The afternoon unfolded into a joyous celebration of food and music. Friendly young waiters, with limited English, served delicious home-cooked dishes. The entertainment included an 80-year-old flute player celebrating his birthday and Carolina herself, who stunned us all with a breathtaking version of Summertime. Every nationality in attendance was encouraged to sing a song from their home country. A Dutch group chose a traditional Sinterklaas tune, while we attempted Waltzing Matilda—only to realize we didn’t remember all the lyrics and, of course, had no way of looking them up online!
A Close Call with Cash
The experience was unforgettable, but it almost ended in a saga. My husband had neglected to ask about the price, and we barely had enough cash to cover the bill. With no internet or card payment options, there was no way to withdraw more. Unfortunately, this meant no tip for the hardworking staff—a bit of an embarrassing moment!
Discovering Maseroff was more than just a meal; it was an experience. A journey back in time, a lesson in history, and a reminder of the joy of unplugged, authentic moments. If you ever find yourself in Jalon, take the drive up the hills—you won’t regret it.
Stay tuned for more adventures
Marijke
