Our lifestyle change journey in Spain continues—and this week, it brought us to a little gem of a village called Orxeta, tucked away in the hills behind Vila Joiosa. We’d driven through it not long ago during a road trip to explore more inland areas like Relleu and Sella.
I remember pointing out a few things about Orxeta when we drove through. It had a bakery and a chemist—small essentials that quietly signal life in a village. My husband, however, dismissed it within seconds. “I don’t think we need to stop here,” he said.
Central square of Orxeta with a marketOne of the quaint village streets in Orxeta
Funny how things come full circle. Now, just weeks later, there’s a promising house within walking distance of this little gem of a village. The online ad looked intriguing, and we quickly arranged a viewing. The estate agent, to our surprise, was responsive and helpful—quite rare in our experience. She had moved to Orxeta herself five years ago, relocating from nearby Finestrat, closer to the bustle of Benidorm.
We arrived early for our viewing and wandered through the village. To our delight, it was more than charming—it was remarkably well-kept. The streets were tidy, houses freshly painted, and the town square lively. There was a small market, a grocery shop, a pharmacy, a bakery, two cafés, and a few restaurants. Small, yes—but everything we could need.
The cheapest coffee of our trip
Over coffee and tostado (a modest €4 for both of us), we began to picture ourselves here.
A Near Miss—and What We’ve Learned
But then came the disappointment. The seller had accepted an offer the night before—from a different agent. Just our luck.
Why was it so disheartening? Because after 14 weeks of researching the Costa Blanca and its hinterland, we’ve fine-tuned what really matters to us in this lifestyle transition:
Proximity to a village—we don’t want to be isolated
Authenticity—a true Spanish town, not just an expat enclave
Basic amenities—at least a shop, pharmacy, and a café
Signs of life—not a dying village, as sadly many rural spots in Spain and France seem to be
Accessibility—within short driving distance of supermarkets, services, and the coast
Connection to a city—here, Alicante, with its medical facilities and hospital
This house, or rather this location seemed a little gem and ticked all the boxes. Even though we only glimpsed it from afar, it left an impression. Of course, many things could have been wrong with the house—we are not romanticising blindly. We are becoming aware of the ins and outs of buying property on terra rústica land.
The Hidden Complexity of Rural Living
On rustic land, you can generally make changes inside the house—but anything outside could be illegal, including something as significant as a pool. Regulations can be strict and vary by region.
As fate would have it, the offer on the house fell through. According to the agent, it was due to the buyer’s financial issues, though it’s just as likely a legal complication was uncovered. The agent recommended we engage a lawyer to perform thorough due diligence. It turns out that in this part of Spain, a notary mainly certifies your signature and not much else.
Yes, hiring a lawyer may cost extra, but for peace of mind? It’s probably worth every cent.
So now we’re back in the game. Another viewing the this house in Orxeta is on the cards. It’s quite exciting, really.
A Lifestyle Vision Comes into Focus
Whatever the outcome, we feel closer to understanding what our future life might look like. This location isn’t in the well-known Marina Alta region and we are not even sure we would want to be there. A little gem like this may be the next best thing—or even better, in its own quiet, understated way.
This journey is as much about rediscovering what we want from life as it is about buying a house. For anyone 50-plus considering a lifestyle change—whether moving to the sun, downsizing, or seeking simplicity—this kind of exploration can be deeply fulfilling.
We’ve been exploring the hinterland of Alicante and Villajoyosa, visiting charming inland towns like Aspe, Novelda, Monóvar, and Agost. AI describes them as authentic and charming and these places sounded like hidden gems. The reality, however, often missed the mark. Our latest trip took us to Castalla, Ibi, and Tibi—again, seemingly promising towns described as offering an undiscovered, traditional Spanish lifestyle.
Tibi, in particular, drew us in with a house that looked very promising. We scheduled a viewing for Easter Sunday and set off, full of hope.
The drive up the A7 from Alicante was a breeze. Smooth motorway, hardly any traffic, and before we knew it, we were over 650 meters above sea level. That’s when it hit us—literally. The temperature dropped from 19°C to just 9°C. Thankfully, I had packed some winter woollies, which I needed!
Charming Inland Towns: Authentic but Uninspiring
We started in Castalla. Yes, it has a castle, an old town, and an authentic Spanish center with playgrounds, cafés, and parks. But it felt a bit faded—past its glory days. The surroundings were mostly service areas, large stores, and small industries. From the castle’s viewpoint, the industrial sprawl was unmistakable.
Old town of CastallaView from Old town Castalla
Next up was Ibi. Pleasant, but it took us ages to find the town center. I’m not sure if it’s us or the way Spanish inland towns are laid out, but we struggle to locate their “heart.” Sometimes it just feels like a grid of streets. We had a similar experience in Ontinyent—we never found the center at all.
Eventually, we stumbled upon Ibi’s older quarter, and it was better than we initially thought. AI descriptions weren’t completely off, but the town didn’t steal our hearts either. To be clear, we don’t want to live in a town—we’re looking for places nearby with appealing surroundings. This area, unfortunately, didn’t offer that. It felt too industrial, with open-air quarries and possibly some pollution.
Central street in Ibi
The House in Tibi: Almost Perfect—Almost
The real reason for this trip was a house viewing in Tibi. The village itself is split by a valley, quaint but with not much going on. The house was located 8 km away, in an urbanización called Terol.
Now, who decides where to build these residential clusters in the middle of nowhere is beyond me. Terol had a popular restaurant, but the rest of it? Unsealed roads, no shops, no walking paths—just roads. It felt isolated. And in heavy rain? I imagine the roads turn into a mud pit.
We met the owners, who had come from Alicante with their whole family—perhaps to help with English, though we managed the visit mostly in Spanish. The house was lovely. Legal too—on terra urbana, which means no shady paperwork. This matters a lot. We’ve seen what happens otherwise. Once, we visited a house on terra rústica in Pedreguer where the owner told us to build a pool anyway and just pay the fine. That cowboy attitude might have worked in the past, but Spain is tightening its rules.
View on Tibi
Back in Tibi, the house ticked nearly all our boxes. But my eyes kept drifting toward the opposite plot, fenced with a horrible green material. From our higher vantage point, I could see a hut, an outdoor kitchen, a wood chopping area, and people gathered with loud music and drinks. A casual hangout? Maybe. But if it becomes a weekend party zone, I didn’t want to be anywhere near it. A little voice inside me said: “Run!”
The Verdict: Lessons Learned
In the end, Castalla, Ibi, and Tibi may be charming inland towns and “authentic,” but they’re not for us. Too cold, too high—so we’ve now added a new rule: no towns above 250–300 meters altitude.
And those urbanizaciones in the middle of nowhere? Not really my favourite! I’d rather have a local shop, a café within walking distance, and actual walking trails—not just roads.
Key Takeaways
Above 500 meters altitude brings colder weather
Many towns are charming but lack vitality or community feeling.
Don’t just judge the house—judge the neighborhood and nearby amenities.
No shops, sealed roads, or walkability? Probably not worth the trade-off.
Thinking of living in Spain? After 13 weeks exploring the Costa Blanca and the hinterland of Alicante, we learned that finding “the perfect place” is harder than it looks
In January this year, we set off to Spain, searching for the perfect place to live. After just over 3 months, we can now conclude: this road will not be an easy one.
We chose the Costa Blanca, as we had visited before and liked the vibe. Sure, it has Benidorm — but what in life is ever perfect? The Marina Alta, with its charm, beautiful scenery, and cute towns, drew us in. We are not alone; the area is full of North Europeans who, like us, sought a different lifestyle — warmer, cheaper, or simply something new.
However, it seems we might have missed the boat, both financially and culturally. Spain has almost disappeared from this area, taken over by the Dutch and the Brits.
So, we decided to head further south and explore the hinterland around Villajoyosa and Alicante. We already checked out Castalla, Ibi, and Tibi — but for many reasons, it wasn’t our thing. One reason being the altitude of 700 meters: higher means colder, especially in winter — and escaping the cold was the whole idea!
Exploring the Alicante Hinterland: Aspe, Novelda, Monóvar, and More
This time, we picked an area right in Alicante’s backyard: Aspe, Novelda, Monóver, Monforte, and Agost. Quite an ambitious list for one day, but we managed to visit them all — and were left feeling exhausted and a bit disillusioned.
Our first stop was Aspe, with around 20,000 inhabitants. Parking was easy, and the centre pleasantly surprised us. It ticked many of our “must-have” boxes: a market, lively cafés on every corner, a gorgeous square with a lovely church, lush trees, a few cafés, and a pretty park with a fountain. I could easily imagine bubbly summer nights here. We had an excellent coffee — just €1.30 — and noticed we were likely the only English speakers around. Full of hope, we moved on!
Imagine balmy summer nights…..
Only 4 or 5 km down the road was Novelda. Again, parking was easy, but the first impression was very different. Street after street of parked cars, a random shop here and there, but not much else. No cute cafés, no hidden nooks, no real centre. Eventually, we found a square with a church and a few attractive pedestrian streets — but it all felt a bit empty, lacking soul. Surprising, as Novelda is bigger than Aspe, with 27,000 inhabitants.
According to some – a lively town
Monóvar, Monforte, and Agost: Hopes and Realities
Onwards to Monóvar, a town of just over 12,000 people. Again, it had the same uninspiring grid of streets. The historical centre was worth a walk — lots of steps, a scenic church, a castle, and plenty of cats. Yet again, there wasn’t much soul. Not many cosy cafés or spots to enjoy our picnic lunch. A Spanish lady asked me if I liked their “pretty town” — I wasn’t sure what to say.
A hike up to the church was part of the deal
We quickly drove through Monforte without stopping — it didn’t feel like we needed to see more — and finally arrived in Agost. At 376 meters altitude and just under 5,000 inhabitants, Agost is quite a cute town. It has a long pottery tradition, with 11 active potteries and even a pottery walking trail. All in all, not bad — but again, it didn’t quite pull us in either.
Town of potteries
By then, we decided we had earned a sunny terrace and a cold beer.
Final Thoughts: A Challenging Search
Our verdict? This area has some decent towns, but the immediate surroundings are less attractive. The valley is wide and flat, and although the towns sit lower (300–400 meters) than Castalla and Ibi (700 meters), the landscape felt somewhat desolate. There are many quarries, mines, and marble industries around Novelda and Monóver, making the surroundings messy and dry — less trees, more bush.
Interestingly, AI and some travel blogs seem more positive about this area. Maybe they see it through the eyes of a tourist? We are exploring these places to live year-round, which is a very different lens.
Aspe? I would consider visiting again — it showed potential. Agost? Too small, and likely touristy in summer. The others? They didn’t convince me.
Call me difficult, but it has to feel right — this might be our last move after all!
This week, I visited Benidorm, a place that was never even close to making my travel wish list. But when you’re staying nearby and you’d like to form an actual opinion—not just repeat what others say—you kind of have to do it!
Yes, really….Benidorm.
The ever changing skyline of Albir, Benidorm and Altea.
We’re currently staying near Altea, and from where we are, Benidorm’s high-rise skyline is clearly visible on the horizon. It actually reminds me a bit of the Gold Coast in Australia which we have seen plenty of times when our kids grew up. I have taken a few photos of that skyline, and it genuinely seems to change every time we look at it—light, weather, mood—it’s always a little different.
After three weeks of watching it from afar, we finally decided to take a closer look. It was Good Friday—always a bit of a wildcard when it comes to outings. But the drive in turned out to be less hectic than expected. Honestly, we expected a slow procession of cars heading for the center, but this time, it was smooth sailing.
A Few Quick Facts About Benidorm:
It has a population of just under 75 k.
In summer, that number skyrockets to over 400k—possibly to levels best described as “bursting at the seams.”
Facilities? Let’s just say, if you need it, Benidorm probably has it.
First impressions
As we approached the town, our first impression was that it looked like a typical Spanish city. You don’t immediately see the towering high-rises unless you catch a glimpse down one of the side streets. We managed to park in a covered garage quite close to the center—plenty of spaces and no stress.
From there, we strolled towards the beach, aiming to find the “old town” that several people had recommended. We wandered through a few lively streets, passed numerous shops and cafés, and eventually arrived at the beachfront. But somewhere along the way, we seemed to have missed what we thought would be a quaint, historic district.
Where is the old town?
It’s possible that we expected something similar to Altea’s old town, with cobbled lanes, flower-draped balconies, and a certain charm. What we found was more of a bustling commercial hub—restaurants, pubs, souvenir shops, and everything in between. It certainly caters to the crowds, which, judging by the numbers, it handles with ease.
Peace and quiet! Not on this beach…..
And speaking of crowds… the beach was absolutely packed. It honestly reminded me of Bondi Beach in Sydney on Christmas Day which we experienced before having kids. The weather was glorious, and clearly, everyone had the same idea.
We continued exploring and discovered another bay just around the headland—again, wall-to-wall sunseekers. In between is a lovely lookout point, a mirador built on the site of what was once a castle. It offered stunning views of the coast either way and was clearly a popular photo stop.
El Mirador de Benidorm – one of the city’s landmarksLooking south towards Alicante
Benidorm’s shopping streets are extensive, with a mix of local and international brands. And like Alicante, it has ‘eat streets’—entire stretches where one restaurant follows another. While exploring those, we noticed something interesting: tapas and pintxo bars were mostly filled with locals and Spanish holidaymakers, while the establishments serving fry-ups, burgers, and pizzas had a distinctly North European clientele.
Benidorm – final thoughts!
We spent a few hours in Benidorm and came away slightly surprised—and a little amused—by our experience. Would I choose to holiday there? No, not really. But oddly enough, I wouldn’t mind spending some time there under the right circumstances.
This could entice me for another visit!!
Here’s why:
In the city center, you’re not really aware of the skyscrapers or the overcrowded beaches.
If you find the local spots, you’re surrounded by Spanish speakers and tasty spanish food, not sunburnt tourists on a mission.
And if you look past the obvious tourist zones, it starts to feel like a regular Spanish town—one where people live, work, and go about their day.
One thing to be clear about: we visited during Easter. I’m not sure I’d be quite as relaxed about the idea if it were peak summer.
Would I return in July or August to find out? Let’s just say—I’m quite happy not knowing.
🧐 Handy Tip: If you’re driving in, aim for the parking garages near the center—they’re easier and less stressful than circling endlessly in the heat.
I’m 60+, I work online (still on UK hours), and I’ve started flirting with the idea of moving to Spain. Not just more sun, coast or inland, but a different scene and the chance to get an Australian pension as that will never happen in La France! Spain, especially the Costa Blanca, kept showing up in that new vision.
While I am writing this, we have been in Spain three months and literally only scraped the surface with our research. One of the questions that keeps on hitting us is” Should we live by the coast or inland? They’re close on the map—but offer totally different vibes.
🌊 Life on the Coast: Breezes, Buzz, and Barefoot Days
There’s something instantly seductive about the coast. Just imagine early morning walks on the beach followed by a coffee with sea views. In other words a gentle buzz of life that feels just right.
In towns like Altea, Moraira, or Calpe, life flows around beach promenades, cafés, markets, and marina views. It’s easy to settle in, easy to meet people, and easy to romanticise. (Because it is romantic.)
What I like about coastal life is the walkability, the sense of community and constant ‘sea’ inspiration. If speaking Spanish is still a work in progress, English-speaking support is usually more available if you need it.
Coast or inland – what appeals more?
Being able to pop out for a beach walk on a work day, gives you that “mini-holiday” energy. Usually you’ll have quick access to restaurants, events, and social life
But here’s the catch! It will get crowded in high season and property prices and rents are higher. Many of the coastal towns feel more expat than España and supermarkets are stocked with marmite, Dutch bread rolls and German sausage.
🌄 Inland: Tranquility, Tradition, and Real Spanish Life
Then if you drive 30–40 km inland, the whole mood shifts! You find hidden villages surrounded by almond groves, terraced hills, and views that stretch for days. It’s quiet, slow, honest, Spanish and you may need some Spanish vocab.
Towns like Jalon, La Nucia and Finestrat offer a real chance to get a taster of a more authentic Spain.
What I love about it is the peace, space and the sky. You have to see the sky to believe it. There is more affordable housing with character and often more land! Sometimes a bit too much because really, what would you want with 10 hectares.
Inland you live more like the Spanish locals do, it has more seasonal living and locals still say ‘Buenes’ and mostly mean it.
But you need to be okay with having a car, in fact you’ll need one! There are fewer restaurants and fewer or no options for shopping. It could be hotter in the summer but you’ll have cooler nights and no humidity.
“Inland feels like returning to yourself. No fuss—just life, a little slower.”
So coast or inland… What’s right for me?
My gut feeling says maybe both. Considering my age, one thing stands out and that is proximity to medical help. We have learned that distance is not always the issue as a motorway allows you to do 40km in a whizz. On the other hand a town only 15 km inland could be impossible to navigate. Especially when the road is steep, windy and dangerous at night.
So we are still exploring and listening to our bodies and calendars but I’ll say this! If you want to stay connected with like minded souls and be more cushioned, the coast has your back. If you want simplify and go deeper, inland might just feel like coming home as long as it is accessible.
What about you – coast or inland?
If you’re thinking about a lifestyle reset—whether it’s a full move or just a season—maybe this is the nudge. I’ll keep sharing my journey, the wins and wobblies alike.
Next up? “Rent or Buy in Spain: What Makes Sense When You’re 60+ and Still Working?”
Follow along, ask questions and dream with me. Although this chapter is mine, it could be yours too.
