One of the things I love about exploring new areas is discovering hidden gems—whether it’s a tucked-away restaurant, a cute little bar, or even a scenic cave perfect for a picnic. I’m sure most people have had such moments, and this time, we certainly did.
A Bar Full of Dutch Nostalgia
It all started when we were wandering through Moraira, looking for a nice beer after a day of exploring. We passed a strip of Dutch-style bars—plenty of those around here. The first one looked heaving, so we skipped it, only to return later when the others seemed dull in comparison.
We ended up in a lively Dutch bar, surrounded by locals belting out Dutch bar songs at the top of their lungs. It instantly transported me back to my twenties in the Netherlands, where such scenes were common and always fun. I told my husband that standing and singing on bar stools was part of the tradition, and sure enough, it wasn’t long before it happened!
The Journey to Maserof
An English woman at the bar told us about an inland place called Maserof, not far from Jalon. Intrigued, we set off on a 20-minute uphill drive through the Sierra Bernia mountains, passing a donkey farm along the way. Eventually, we arrived at a tiny hamlet discovering not one but three bustling restaurants side by side – Maserof, Verd i Vent and Casa Susi.
To our surprise, Maseroff had no electricity. Everything ran on generators, and they used old-fashioned notebooks for the bills—no tills, no internet, no mobile reception. You could make a reservation via WhatsApp, but the owners only responded once back home.
Elegant table setting
It was a Sunday afternoon, and all three restaurants were packed, serving set menus. The first, Maserof, was also a winery and museum. Its main door appeared locked, and it was hard to get a peek inside, though the sound of live music (obviously battery-powered) drifted out. The other two restaurants had inviting outdoor seating and the surrounding fields were filled with cars and campervans.
Discovering an Unforgettable Dining Experience
We decided to book a table at Maserof and returned a week later. The experience was something else. All guests began the afternoon in a beautiful outdoor area with sweeping views, sipping on ‘vino caliente’ (mulled wine). The menu price included home produced wine and mulled wine but not other drinks, making my zero beer and sparkling water the most expensive beverages we’d had in the region
Cooking with gaz
At a set time, the owner, Carolina—of English and Spanish descent—welcomed us and gave a fascinating tour of the museum and kitchen. The kitchen itself was remarkable, as everything was prepared by candlelight and cooked on gas. Among the antiques on display were original Alhambra wall tiles, a reminder of how different things were in Spain during the ‘60s and ‘70s.
Carolina shared how her British father, Peter Pateman, bought the 17th-century property in the ‘70s and began restoring it. Some original Roman structures remained intact. Today, it includes various rooms, accommodations with Napoleon-sized beds for overindulgent guests, and a museum filled with artifacts that really belong in a national collection.
Music, Food, and Unexpected Performances
The five-course meal was an event in itself. The cold starters had already been prepared, waiting to be served to about fifty guests. Some were regulars, while others, like us, were first-timers.
Exploring MaserofPrepping with candle light
The afternoon unfolded into a joyous celebration of food and music. Friendly young waiters, with limited English, served delicious home-cooked dishes. The entertainment included an 80-year-old flute player celebrating his birthday and Carolina herself, who stunned us all with a breathtaking version of Summertime. Every nationality in attendance was encouraged to sing a song from their home country. A Dutch group chose a traditional Sinterklaas tune, while we attempted Waltzing Matilda—only to realize we didn’t remember all the lyrics and, of course, had no way of looking them up online!
A Close Call with Cash
The experience was unforgettable, but it almost ended in a saga. My husband had neglected to ask about the price, and we barely had enough cash to cover the bill. With no internet or card payment options, there was no way to withdraw more. Unfortunately, this meant no tip for the hardworking staff—a bit of an embarrassing moment!
Discovering Maseroff was more than just a meal; it was an experience. A journey back in time, a lesson in history, and a reminder of the joy of unplugged, authentic moments. If you ever find yourself in Jalon, take the drive up the hills—you won’t regret it.
Spain is experiencing an unusual weather pattern. Over the past two weeks, we’ve had strong winds, cool temperatures, and ominous clouds, topped off with a severe weather warning. It’s a stark reminder that even in places known for sunshine, nature has its own plans. Just remember 29/10—the floods in Valencia—and you’ll understand our sense of alarm.
This isn’t our first experience with extreme weather. In Limoux, we witnessed several floods. In Brisbane, we endured a lengthy drought, only to see the Brisbane River rise nearly five meters during the 2011 floods. And in Cataluña, we house-sat during torrential rainstorms that sent water streaming through the house.
The owner’s reaction? Pure nonchalance. Her advice? Sweep the water through and go to bed. It was just part of life there. But it drove home an important point: location matters, especially when hills and water flow are involved.
River Aude – wider than ever!
The Importance of Water Flow and Hills
Everywhere we’ve looked for property so far is surrounded by hills. While picturesque, it’s essential to understand how water moves in these areas. One key lesson we’ve learned: avoid homes at the bottom of hilly streets.
Our house in Brisbane never flooded, despite being near the bottom of a slope, but we often had to sweep away water to keep it from entering the house. The garden, however, turned into a wild, raging river. The house below us? Its garage collected all the water, making it a terrible place for storage. Similarly, in Cataluña, despite being on higher ground, water still found its way toward the house from the surrounding hills.
Understanding Flood Risks Before Buying
So how do you predict what water will do in extreme weather? Are there experts who analyze these risks? We’re beginning to realize that understanding water movement is just as important as knowing about property taxes or local amenities.
The Brisbane River rising above 5 meters
Brisbane’s 2011 floods happened on a bright, sunny day. The water came from inland, and no one could stop its rise. The situation worsened because it coincided with high tide. Similarly, when Valencia flooded last year, the water’s origins weren’t immediately obvious.
Unpredictability of the Weather
Climates are shifting, and areas once considered low-risk are now vulnerable. Just last week, Brisbane was bracing for Cyclone Alfred—an anomaly for the area. Cyclones typically impact northern Queensland, but this time, the eye of the storm was heading straight for the southern coast.
It’s a sobering thought: when buying a home, you can’t assume the past will dictate the future. You need to prepare for the worst weather and factor in changing weather patterns.
Weather Lessons We’ve Learned:
Understand water flow – Hills can be beautiful, but water needs somewhere to go.
Research historical floods – If a house has flooded before, it’s likely to happen again.
Talk to locals – They often know which areas are prone to flooding.
Check drainage systems – Poor drainage can turn a mild storm into a disaster.
Climate change is real – Areas once considered safe may now be at risk.
At this stage, we don’t know exactly what kind of property we’ll end up with—flat land, a hilly plot to build on, or an existing house. But one thing is clear: we consider ourselves warned, and we’ll be paying close attention.
After two months in Moraira, Marina Alta, we set our sights further south, hoping to find a rental in or near Villajoyosa. We even had our eye on a charming old-town apartment in the heart of the city—but we missed out. And so, the search continued.
To find a rental through Facebook groups
Our first rental in Moraira came from a Facebook group, and thankfully, it turned out to be a genuine listing. So when another opportunity popped up on a different Facebook page, we were hopeful.
A guy reached out via Messenger, offering an apartment in Villajoyosa. He asked for my email to send more details and photos—not an unusual request, but in today’s world, a little caution goes a long way.
After some prompting, he sent over 10 photos and a detailed description. It all looked great. I asked for pricing, deposit details, and any additional fees. That’s when the red flag popped up—he wanted a 40% deposit upfront, nearly €600.
Colourful houses in Villa Joiosa
Something felt off. I asked for proof of a tourist license, reviews, or any official listing. Silence. No response. Suspicious, I did a reverse search for the apartment and found it listed on Airbnb—for over €100 per night—under a Dutch female owner. Classic scam.
Can you trust anyone these days? It’s hard to say.
Avoiding Rental Scams: The Banana Trick
When negotiating our Moraira rental, the owner had never rented it out before and had no tourist license. But they offered a video call to explain the situation and even lowered the deposit to ease our concerns. That gave us confidence, and thankfully, it all worked out.
A fellow renter once told me a brilliant trick: Ask the owner to take a picture standing inside the rental holding a banana. If they refuse or make excuses, run! It might sound silly, but it’s a simple way to confirm the listing is real.
No colour restrictions here…..
The Hidden World of Rental Agents
Many Facebook rental groups claim to be for homeowners and renters only, but the reality is quite different. The majority of “owners” are actually agents, cleverly disguising themselves until you decline the first property—at which point, they suddenly have plenty of options.
Meanwhile, well-known Spanish rental sites are notorious for not responding to inquiries. They live up to that reputation flawlessly. And when you do get a response, it’s often from an agent, not a direct owner. The site itself has no real control over customer service, so you’re left waiting, often indefinitely.
Key Takeaways
To find a rental in Spain is proving much harder than we hoped and we learned a few things:
Trust but verify – Always ask for proof like a tourist license, reviews, or an official listing. High deposits can be a red flag.
Use the “banana trick” – Ask the owner for a photo inside the rental holding a random object. A quick way to spot scammers!
Many “owners” are actually agents – Many Facebook listings come from agents, not direct homeowners. Be prepared for upselling.
Be flexible – The ideal house may not exist, so adjusting expectations can make the search easier.
Always different than the neighbours….
Rethinking the ‘Dream Rental’
Our vision of the ideal house in Villajoyosa is slipping away, and we’ve had to adjust our criteria. Now, we’re open to places that are less than perfect—as long as they’re available and legitimate!
With one month left to secure our next home, we remain hopeful. The ideal house might not exist exactly as we imagined, but we’ll find something that works.
After a couple of weeks in Moraira, we’re starting to see a pattern. Life on the coast is very much an expat scene, while inland Spain offers a more authentic Spanish experience. In this post, I want to share our impressions of a few inland towns we visited.
These towns have a few things in common. They are functional Spanish towns with real amenities—medical services, schools, town halls, council offices, and businesses that cater to local life rather than tourism. Just Spanish life as it is.
Market Towns in Inland Spain
We explored Benissa, Gata de Gorgos, Pedreguer, and Pego. One thing we noticed: they all have lively weekly markets. Benissa’s market is on Saturdays, Gata de Gorgos on Fridays, Pedreguer hosts a rastro every Sunday morning, and Pego’s market takes place on Thursdays.
Since we love markets, having one nearby is a must. In France, our weekly market ritual includes fresh fruit and veggie shopping, a café stop, and the occasional run-in with familiar faces. It’s a tradition we’re not willing to give up.
Little cafes everywhere
The Feel of Inland Spain
Walking through these Spanish towns, we were struck by how clean and well-kept they are. Small shops and bars are tucked away, buzzing with local life. You won’t get far with English or other foreign languages, but the locals are friendly, quick to greet you, and happy to chat or help—giving my very basic Spanish some much-needed practice!
A few weeks ago, we met someone living in Moraira who was house-hunting in Pedreguer. More space, better value, and a different pace of life drew her inland. Funny enough, we later spotted her viewing a house right on the town’s main square!
An Unexpected Conversation
While wandering Pedreguer’s streets, a local man struck up a conversation, asking if I liked the town. When I said I was Dutch, he went off on how Dutch buyers were pushing up house prices, making it harder for locals to afford homes. I’m not sure why he singled out the Dutch—we’re far from the only ones—but I get it. It’s a common issue in sought-after regions.
Street of Pedrequer
All these towns are in the Marina Alta, within 25 km of the coast but not all coastal areas are equally charming. We took a 20-minute drive from Pego to the nearest beach. The sandy, wide coastline was beautiful, but surprisingly quiet. No chiringuitos, no tucked-away beach bars—just a strip of road lined with restaurants, bars, and summer attractions that probably come alive in peak season.
After taking it all in, we wrapped up the day with a meal at one of our favorite spots in Denia. Reflecting on our inland tour, we realized we really liked the towns we’d seen. We could see ourselves living near a place like this.
Marina Alta: A Strong Contender
The Marina Alta is definitely growing on us. It has that perfect blend of authenticity, coastal proximity, and everyday livability. While none of the towns we visited screamed WOW, Benissa stood out as a place with real potential. This region is starting to feel like home, and we’re excited to dig deeper and see if it’s where we truly belong.
Denia – not a bad place at all!Benissa – a Spanish working town with a lovely old centreWandering old town Pego
Key Takeaways:
Inland towns feel more authentic and Spanish than the coast.
Markets are an important feature for us.
Locals are welcoming, but you need to speak some Spanish.
Coastal areas vary—some are lively, others can feel deserted offseason.
Benissa stands out, but we’ll keep exploring!
What do you think? Do you prefer coastal or inland life? Drop a comment below—I’d love to hear your thoughts!
On another note, if you like my pictures, you can find more in my new Etsy shop.
Finding the ideal house in Spain is a combined effort with my sister. She wants a holiday home while we plan to live there all year -round. This means balancing different needs: a place that works for relaxed vacations and a spot that fits our everyday lifestyle. While we are physically in Spain exploring potential areas, she is busy scanning the listings from afar, sending us links to check them out.
One of those links led us to a house in Ontinyent, a city we hadn’t even considered. It’s in the Valencian province, about 55 km inland. Still, keeping an open mind, we decided to make the over 100 km drive to see if it could be the right fit.
First Impressions of Ontinyent
The drive took us 1.5 hours, which already felt like a stretch. We had a tentative viewing scheduled, though another buyer had seen it the day before and was considering an offer. Oddly enough, the agent wouldn’t let us view it until that offer was decided. A bit bizarre, as you’d think having backup interest would be a good thing.
As we were waiting, we decided to check out Ontinyent. With a population of 35k we expected a fair amount of amenities. and a lively city centre. But after parking and walking around, we struggled to find a bit of soul. It was a grid of streets, maybe a Roman influence but we could not find much buzz.
La Plaça Mayor – hardly a plaça!
A tourist office directed us to a central square, Plaça Mayor where we could find some action. We arrived, found a church, one cafe and a handful of parked cars. As our hometown in France has a fabulous square and is a quarter of the size of this town, we felt rather disappointed.
This has to be the best street in Ontinyent….!
From the square we wondered up into the old town hoping to find little tucked away bars and quirky cafes. None of those! We decided that Ontinyent was not the right fit for us!
The Ideal House in the Wrong Location?
We had not heard from the real estate lady and decided to drive up to the house as we had the coordinates. It was a 4km drive and the house sat in an ‘urbanizacion’ – one of those sprawling suburban developments with large plots and walled-off homes. Not exactly the community feel we’re looking for.
A peek through the fence.
From what we could see, the house itself had plenty of potential. There was a main house, a casita, a large outdoor area, a pool, a carport , some fruit trees and a small olive grove. Sounds idyllic – right?
However it was in the wrong location in every aspect. Here’s why!
The house was in an urbanizacion – large plots with high walls. A push if you like to get to know your neighbours.
Ontinyent was not unattractive but it did not offer much either – no spark
At over 50 km inland, a beach trip would require real effort.
The nearest beach options are Gandia and Oliva. Both high rise resort towns.
The drive to the beach felt tedious – slow and quite busy even in the winter. Imagine the summer!
This experience reminded us of an important discovery: a beautiful home means nothing if it’s in the wrong place.
So, we keep going, refining our vision, and narrowing down locations that feel right. The search continues—stay tuned
Last but not least—don’t forget to comment! It helps others find my blog, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Also, if you have any tips, send them my way!
On another note, if you like my pictures, you can find more in my new Etsy shop.
After visiting Calpe, we realised that we are drawn to a more authentic Spain. So, we decided to turn our focus inland.
Don’t get me wrong, we love Moraira – it is charming, coastal, and buzzing with life. After all, that’s exactly why it has attracted so many Dutch, English, Germans, and even some French expats. The house prices are well beyond our budget and we doubt if you could consider it authentic Spain.
Marina Alta – more authentic Spain??
The area inland of Moraira called Marina Alta has a lot to offer. It is very pretty with rolling hills that are perfect for hiking and cycling. Several villages caught our eye and Jalon, Parcent and Alcalalí were the first ones to check out.
Our plan was to visit Jalon first but it turned out that the weekly brocante market was in full swing. Parking was a nightmare and we kept driving to the next town – Alcalalí.
Along the way, we passed dozens of cyclists. If we lived here, we have to accept that they would be a constant presence. They seem to keep to their own set of traffic rules and overtaking them with the required 1.5m distance on these narrow roads is not an easy task.
Alcalalí – small but ticking many boxes
Alcalalí sits in the Pop Valley of the Marina Alta Region and it is about 20 km from the coast. We have learned that we rarely go to the beach when it is around 50 km away and 20 km is totally doable.
Alcalalí and its pastel coloured streets
It’s a small town of 1,500 people, with colourful houses and a lot of construction. It felt like a giant work-in-progress. Shops were sparse, most cafés were closed, and yet, it had a certain charm. We spotted a gorgeous garden cafe but sadly, it didn’t open until noon. You would think with all the cyclists around, more places would cater to them early! On our way to Parcent, we did pass two cycling cafes that were open and as expected packed with cyclists.
Could Parcent be authentic Spain?
On to historical Parcent – 25 km from Moraira, a small originally Moorish town of 1100 people with cute narrow streets. It’s famous for its Rates de Parcent, a must-do cycling pass with it viewpoint Mirador del Coll.
Locals greeted us with friendly buenos, and we found a charming community hall café with a sunny terrace. Again, not much was open until midday, but the town had a great feel.
Fun fact: A coffee in Parcent can cost as little as €1.20, while trendy cycling cafés charge up to €2.60.
Despite its small size, Parcent has all the essentials: shops, bakeries, doctors, and pharmacies. It’s even considered very Spanish—though a 2006 census showed that 35% of residents are Northern European. They must have integrated well!
Writer Gabriel Miró called Parcent “a paradise between the mountains.” We now get why!
Vibrant and colourful Parcent
Jalon
Back to Jalon, hoping for a parking spot and luckily, we found one at the inland edge of town. The market was fantastic, reminding us of some of our favourite markets in Esperaza, France or Eumundi in Australia. It was set along the river, surrounded by lively restaurants and cafés. Obviously it was packed, so we skipped exploring the old town and hope to save it for a quieter day.
Jalon is only a 20 minute drive to the coast, has a wine cooperative and many lively spots for a bite to eat.
We learned a few things
We like living in a wine region. Limoux is a wine paradise and we love it. The Marina Alta is a wine region.
We like the beach within reach – ideally not further than 20 km
We don’t want to be isolated and we want access to medical services and supermarkets.
This region is a cyclist paradise – great for exercise and people-watching as pro cyclists train here in winter!
The Marian Alta has no heavy industry nor pollution as you see when driving towards Valencia
Surrounded by beautiful hilly areas for walks and hiking
Visiting these towns have definitely given us an idea about a more authentic Spain, and we have only just begun.
Last but not least—don’t forget to comment! It helps others find my blog, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Also, if you have any tips, send them my way!
On another note, if you like my pictures, you can find more in my new Etsy shop.
