Finding the ideal house in Spain is a combined effort with my sister. She wants a holiday home while we plan to live there all year -round. This means balancing different needs: a place that works for relaxed vacations and a spot that fits our everyday lifestyle. While we are physically in Spain exploring potential areas, she is busy scanning the listings from afar, sending us links to check them out.
One of those links led us to a house in Ontinyent, a city we hadn’t even considered. It’s in the Valencian province, about 55 km inland. Still, keeping an open mind, we decided to make the over 100 km drive to see if it could be the right fit.
First Impressions of Ontinyent
The drive took us 1.5 hours, which already felt like a stretch. We had a tentative viewing scheduled, though another buyer had seen it the day before and was considering an offer. Oddly enough, the agent wouldn’t let us view it until that offer was decided. A bit bizarre, as you’d think having backup interest would be a good thing.
As we were waiting, we decided to check out Ontinyent. With a population of 35k we expected a fair amount of amenities. and a lively city centre. But after parking and walking around, we struggled to find a bit of soul. It was a grid of streets, maybe a Roman influence but we could not find much buzz.
La Plaça Mayor – hardly a plaça!
A tourist office directed us to a central square, Plaça Mayor where we could find some action. We arrived, found a church, one cafe and a handful of parked cars. As our hometown in France has a fabulous square and is a quarter of the size of this town, we felt rather disappointed.
This has to be the best street in Ontinyent….!
From the square we wondered up into the old town hoping to find little tucked away bars and quirky cafes. None of those! We decided that Ontinyent was not the right fit for us!
The Ideal House in the Wrong Location?
We had not heard from the real estate lady and decided to drive up to the house as we had the coordinates. It was a 4km drive and the house sat in an ‘urbanizacion’ – one of those sprawling suburban developments with large plots and walled-off homes. Not exactly the community feel we’re looking for.
A peek through the fence.
From what we could see, the house itself had plenty of potential. There was a main house, a casita, a large outdoor area, a pool, a carport , some fruit trees and a small olive grove. Sounds idyllic – right?
However it was in the wrong location in every aspect. Here’s why!
The house was in an urbanizacion – large plots with high walls. A push if you like to get to know your neighbours.
Ontinyent was not unattractive but it did not offer much either – no spark
At over 50 km inland, a beach trip would require real effort.
The nearest beach options are Gandia and Oliva. Both high rise resort towns.
The drive to the beach felt tedious – slow and quite busy even in the winter. Imagine the summer!
This experience reminded us of an important discovery: a beautiful home means nothing if it’s in the wrong place.
So, we keep going, refining our vision, and narrowing down locations that feel right. The search continues—stay tuned
Last but not least—don’t forget to comment! It helps others find my blog, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Also, if you have any tips, send them my way!
On another note, if you like my pictures, you can find more in my new Etsy shop.
After visiting Calpe, we realised that we are drawn to a more authentic Spain. So, we decided to turn our focus inland.
Don’t get me wrong, we love Moraira – it is charming, coastal, and buzzing with life. After all, that’s exactly why it has attracted so many Dutch, English, Germans, and even some French expats. The house prices are well beyond our budget and we doubt if you could consider it authentic Spain.
Marina Alta – more authentic Spain??
The area inland of Moraira called Marina Alta has a lot to offer. It is very pretty with rolling hills that are perfect for hiking and cycling. Several villages caught our eye and Jalon, Parcent and Alcalalí were the first ones to check out.
Our plan was to visit Jalon first but it turned out that the weekly brocante market was in full swing. Parking was a nightmare and we kept driving to the next town – Alcalalí.
Along the way, we passed dozens of cyclists. If we lived here, we have to accept that they would be a constant presence. They seem to keep to their own set of traffic rules and overtaking them with the required 1.5m distance on these narrow roads is not an easy task.
Alcalalí – small but ticking many boxes
Alcalalí sits in the Pop Valley of the Marina Alta Region and it is about 20 km from the coast. We have learned that we rarely go to the beach when it is around 50 km away and 20 km is totally doable.
Alcalalí and its pastel coloured streets
It’s a small town of 1,500 people, with colourful houses and a lot of construction. It felt like a giant work-in-progress. Shops were sparse, most cafés were closed, and yet, it had a certain charm. We spotted a gorgeous garden cafe but sadly, it didn’t open until noon. You would think with all the cyclists around, more places would cater to them early! On our way to Parcent, we did pass two cycling cafes that were open and as expected packed with cyclists.
Could Parcent be authentic Spain?
On to historical Parcent – 25 km from Moraira, a small originally Moorish town of 1100 people with cute narrow streets. It’s famous for its Rates de Parcent, a must-do cycling pass with it viewpoint Mirador del Coll.
Locals greeted us with friendly buenos, and we found a charming community hall café with a sunny terrace. Again, not much was open until midday, but the town had a great feel.
Fun fact: A coffee in Parcent can cost as little as €1.20, while trendy cycling cafés charge up to €2.60.
Despite its small size, Parcent has all the essentials: shops, bakeries, doctors, and pharmacies. It’s even considered very Spanish—though a 2006 census showed that 35% of residents are Northern European. They must have integrated well!
Writer Gabriel Miró called Parcent “a paradise between the mountains.” We now get why!
Vibrant and colourful Parcent
Jalon
Back to Jalon, hoping for a parking spot and luckily, we found one at the inland edge of town. The market was fantastic, reminding us of some of our favourite markets in Esperaza, France or Eumundi in Australia. It was set along the river, surrounded by lively restaurants and cafés. Obviously it was packed, so we skipped exploring the old town and hope to save it for a quieter day.
Jalon is only a 20 minute drive to the coast, has a wine cooperative and many lively spots for a bite to eat.
We learned a few things
We like living in a wine region. Limoux is a wine paradise and we love it. The Marina Alta is a wine region.
We like the beach within reach – ideally not further than 20 km
We don’t want to be isolated and we want access to medical services and supermarkets.
This region is a cyclist paradise – great for exercise and people-watching as pro cyclists train here in winter!
The Marian Alta has no heavy industry nor pollution as you see when driving towards Valencia
Surrounded by beautiful hilly areas for walks and hiking
Visiting these towns have definitely given us an idea about a more authentic Spain, and we have only just begun.
Last but not least—don’t forget to comment! It helps others find my blog, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Also, if you have any tips, send them my way!
On another note, if you like my pictures, you can find more in my new Etsy shop.
