Thinking of living in Spain? After 13 weeks exploring the Costa Blanca and the hinterland of Alicante, we learned that finding “the perfect place” is harder than it looks
In January this year, we set off to Spain, searching for the perfect place to live. After just over 3 months, we can now conclude: this road will not be an easy one.
We chose the Costa Blanca, as we had visited before and liked the vibe. Sure, it has Benidorm — but what in life is ever perfect? The Marina Alta, with its charm, beautiful scenery, and cute towns, drew us in. We are not alone; the area is full of North Europeans who, like us, sought a different lifestyle — warmer, cheaper, or simply something new.
However, it seems we might have missed the boat, both financially and culturally. Spain has almost disappeared from this area, taken over by the Dutch and the Brits.
So, we decided to head further south and explore the hinterland around Villajoyosa and Alicante. We already checked out Castalla, Ibi, and Tibi — but for many reasons, it wasn’t our thing. One reason being the altitude of 700 meters: higher means colder, especially in winter — and escaping the cold was the whole idea!
Exploring the Alicante Hinterland: Aspe, Novelda, Monóvar, and More
This time, we picked an area right in Alicante’s backyard: Aspe, Novelda, Monóver, Monforte, and Agost. Quite an ambitious list for one day, but we managed to visit them all — and were left feeling exhausted and a bit disillusioned.
Our first stop was Aspe, with around 20,000 inhabitants. Parking was easy, and the centre pleasantly surprised us. It ticked many of our “must-have” boxes: a market, lively cafés on every corner, a gorgeous square with a lovely church, lush trees, a few cafés, and a pretty park with a fountain. I could easily imagine bubbly summer nights here. We had an excellent coffee — just €1.30 — and noticed we were likely the only English speakers around. Full of hope, we moved on!
Imagine balmy summer nights…..
Only 4 or 5 km down the road was Novelda. Again, parking was easy, but the first impression was very different. Street after street of parked cars, a random shop here and there, but not much else. No cute cafés, no hidden nooks, no real centre. Eventually, we found a square with a church and a few attractive pedestrian streets — but it all felt a bit empty, lacking soul. Surprising, as Novelda is bigger than Aspe, with 27,000 inhabitants.
According to some – a lively town
Monóvar, Monforte, and Agost: Hopes and Realities
Onwards to Monóvar, a town of just over 12,000 people. Again, it had the same uninspiring grid of streets. The historical centre was worth a walk — lots of steps, a scenic church, a castle, and plenty of cats. Yet again, there wasn’t much soul. Not many cosy cafés or spots to enjoy our picnic lunch. A Spanish lady asked me if I liked their “pretty town” — I wasn’t sure what to say.
A hike up to the church was part of the deal
We quickly drove through Monforte without stopping — it didn’t feel like we needed to see more — and finally arrived in Agost. At 376 meters altitude and just under 5,000 inhabitants, Agost is quite a cute town. It has a long pottery tradition, with 11 active potteries and even a pottery walking trail. All in all, not bad — but again, it didn’t quite pull us in either.
Town of potteries
By then, we decided we had earned a sunny terrace and a cold beer.
Final Thoughts: A Challenging Search
Our verdict? This area has some decent towns, but the immediate surroundings are less attractive. The valley is wide and flat, and although the towns sit lower (300–400 meters) than Castalla and Ibi (700 meters), the landscape felt somewhat desolate. There are many quarries, mines, and marble industries around Novelda and Monóver, making the surroundings messy and dry — less trees, more bush.
Interestingly, AI and some travel blogs seem more positive about this area. Maybe they see it through the eyes of a tourist? We are exploring these places to live year-round, which is a very different lens.
Aspe? I would consider visiting again — it showed potential. Agost? Too small, and likely touristy in summer. The others? They didn’t convince me.
Call me difficult, but it has to feel right — this might be our last move after all!
This week, I visited Benidorm, a place that was never even close to making my travel wish list. But when you’re staying nearby and you’d like to form an actual opinion—not just repeat what others say—you kind of have to do it!
Yes, really….Benidorm.
The ever changing skyline of Albir, Benidorm and Altea.
We’re currently staying near Altea, and from where we are, Benidorm’s high-rise skyline is clearly visible on the horizon. It actually reminds me a bit of the Gold Coast in Australia which we have seen plenty of times when our kids grew up. I have taken a few photos of that skyline, and it genuinely seems to change every time we look at it—light, weather, mood—it’s always a little different.
After three weeks of watching it from afar, we finally decided to take a closer look. It was Good Friday—always a bit of a wildcard when it comes to outings. But the drive in turned out to be less hectic than expected. Honestly, we expected a slow procession of cars heading for the center, but this time, it was smooth sailing.
A Few Quick Facts About Benidorm:
It has a population of just under 75 k.
In summer, that number skyrockets to over 400k—possibly to levels best described as “bursting at the seams.”
Facilities? Let’s just say, if you need it, Benidorm probably has it.
First impressions
As we approached the town, our first impression was that it looked like a typical Spanish city. You don’t immediately see the towering high-rises unless you catch a glimpse down one of the side streets. We managed to park in a covered garage quite close to the center—plenty of spaces and no stress.
From there, we strolled towards the beach, aiming to find the “old town” that several people had recommended. We wandered through a few lively streets, passed numerous shops and cafés, and eventually arrived at the beachfront. But somewhere along the way, we seemed to have missed what we thought would be a quaint, historic district.
Where is the old town?
It’s possible that we expected something similar to Altea’s old town, with cobbled lanes, flower-draped balconies, and a certain charm. What we found was more of a bustling commercial hub—restaurants, pubs, souvenir shops, and everything in between. It certainly caters to the crowds, which, judging by the numbers, it handles with ease.
Peace and quiet! Not on this beach…..
And speaking of crowds… the beach was absolutely packed. It honestly reminded me of Bondi Beach in Sydney on Christmas Day which we experienced before having kids. The weather was glorious, and clearly, everyone had the same idea.
We continued exploring and discovered another bay just around the headland—again, wall-to-wall sunseekers. In between is a lovely lookout point, a mirador built on the site of what was once a castle. It offered stunning views of the coast either way and was clearly a popular photo stop.
El Mirador de Benidorm – one of the city’s landmarksLooking south towards Alicante
Benidorm’s shopping streets are extensive, with a mix of local and international brands. And like Alicante, it has ‘eat streets’—entire stretches where one restaurant follows another. While exploring those, we noticed something interesting: tapas and pintxo bars were mostly filled with locals and Spanish holidaymakers, while the establishments serving fry-ups, burgers, and pizzas had a distinctly North European clientele.
Benidorm – final thoughts!
We spent a few hours in Benidorm and came away slightly surprised—and a little amused—by our experience. Would I choose to holiday there? No, not really. But oddly enough, I wouldn’t mind spending some time there under the right circumstances.
This could entice me for another visit!!
Here’s why:
In the city center, you’re not really aware of the skyscrapers or the overcrowded beaches.
If you find the local spots, you’re surrounded by Spanish speakers and tasty spanish food, not sunburnt tourists on a mission.
And if you look past the obvious tourist zones, it starts to feel like a regular Spanish town—one where people live, work, and go about their day.
One thing to be clear about: we visited during Easter. I’m not sure I’d be quite as relaxed about the idea if it were peak summer.
Would I return in July or August to find out? Let’s just say—I’m quite happy not knowing.
🧐 Handy Tip: If you’re driving in, aim for the parking garages near the center—they’re easier and less stressful than circling endlessly in the heat.
I’m 60+, I work online (still on UK hours), and I’ve started flirting with the idea of moving to Spain. Not just more sun, coast or inland, but a different scene and the chance to get an Australian pension as that will never happen in La France! Spain, especially the Costa Blanca, kept showing up in that new vision.
While I am writing this, we have been in Spain three months and literally only scraped the surface with our research. One of the questions that keeps on hitting us is” Should we live by the coast or inland? They’re close on the map—but offer totally different vibes.
🌊 Life on the Coast: Breezes, Buzz, and Barefoot Days
There’s something instantly seductive about the coast. Just imagine early morning walks on the beach followed by a coffee with sea views. In other words a gentle buzz of life that feels just right.
In towns like Altea, Moraira, or Calpe, life flows around beach promenades, cafés, markets, and marina views. It’s easy to settle in, easy to meet people, and easy to romanticise. (Because it is romantic.)
What I like about coastal life is the walkability, the sense of community and constant ‘sea’ inspiration. If speaking Spanish is still a work in progress, English-speaking support is usually more available if you need it.
Coast or inland – what appeals more?
Being able to pop out for a beach walk on a work day, gives you that “mini-holiday” energy. Usually you’ll have quick access to restaurants, events, and social life
But here’s the catch! It will get crowded in high season and property prices and rents are higher. Many of the coastal towns feel more expat than España and supermarkets are stocked with marmite, Dutch bread rolls and German sausage.
🌄 Inland: Tranquility, Tradition, and Real Spanish Life
Then if you drive 30–40 km inland, the whole mood shifts! You find hidden villages surrounded by almond groves, terraced hills, and views that stretch for days. It’s quiet, slow, honest, Spanish and you may need some Spanish vocab.
Towns like Jalon, La Nucia and Finestrat offer a real chance to get a taster of a more authentic Spain.
What I love about it is the peace, space and the sky. You have to see the sky to believe it. There is more affordable housing with character and often more land! Sometimes a bit too much because really, what would you want with 10 hectares.
Inland you live more like the Spanish locals do, it has more seasonal living and locals still say ‘Buenes’ and mostly mean it.
But you need to be okay with having a car, in fact you’ll need one! There are fewer restaurants and fewer or no options for shopping. It could be hotter in the summer but you’ll have cooler nights and no humidity.
“Inland feels like returning to yourself. No fuss—just life, a little slower.”
So coast or inland… What’s right for me?
My gut feeling says maybe both. Considering my age, one thing stands out and that is proximity to medical help. We have learned that distance is not always the issue as a motorway allows you to do 40km in a whizz. On the other hand a town only 15 km inland could be impossible to navigate. Especially when the road is steep, windy and dangerous at night.
So we are still exploring and listening to our bodies and calendars but I’ll say this! If you want to stay connected with like minded souls and be more cushioned, the coast has your back. If you want simplify and go deeper, inland might just feel like coming home as long as it is accessible.
What about you – coast or inland?
If you’re thinking about a lifestyle reset—whether it’s a full move or just a season—maybe this is the nudge. I’ll keep sharing my journey, the wins and wobblies alike.
Next up? “Rent or Buy in Spain: What Makes Sense When You’re 60+ and Still Working?”
Follow along, ask questions and dream with me. Although this chapter is mine, it could be yours too.
After 9 weeks in Moraira and a quick stop in London, we’ve now moved to Mascarat, just north of Altea. Finding rentals was a real struggle—not because there were none available, but because of the complete lack of response from agencies, websites, and homeowners.
France has rentals figured out
In France, there’s a website that offers rentals for over a month. Homeowners register for a fee and create a listing with the house or apartment they want to rent out. It works very well, and we had our own house listed on there for years.
In Spain, there’s nothing quite like that. There are a few large agencies that handle holiday and medium-term rentals. One of them is a sluggish, frustrating machine—half the time the listings are outdated, and the other half you just don’t get a reply. The site doesn’t charge, so it seems nobody really cares.
We did come across a few other websites that claim to help with rentals, but they just redirect you to other listing sites.
Finally, a breakthrough
After a few frustrating weeks, we finally had a few responses. In the end, we found this apartment in Mascarat. We paid a deposit to secure the place, and the owner wanted a contract. She had clearly taken a standard Spanish contract and run it through a translation app. It offered lots of protection for her, and very little for us. My husband suggested some changes, which he submitted in a Word document with comments on the side.
The homeowner—originally from Lithuania and not exactly fluent in English, especially when it comes to legal jargon—nearly gave up on us. Luckily, our daughter (who is almost a lawyer!) gave us some legal advice and frowned at the contract. But we didn’t want to lose the apartment over a ‘legal dispute’.
We figured the risks were low and decided to sign it. We even dropped the contract off at the apartment, as the owners were still there. At least we could confirm it actually existed!
A decent first impression
The apartment was okay, with a lovely mountain view and literally a minute away from stunning sea views. The owners’ daughter gave us a tour and kept telling us how lucky we were to rent the apartment at such a great monthly price.
This is what is called sea glimpses……!Mountain view from our balcony in Mascarat
Strangely enough, the price was exactly the same as all the other apartments we’d looked at.
We moved in during the last weekend of March and will be here for five weeks. Our first impression was that it was neat and clean. But when I went to slide a suitcase under the bed, I quickly discovered that vacuuming is not their strong suit. Corners had clearly been skipped.
The cleaning surprise (not the good kind)
If that had been the only issue, we might’ve forgiven it. But when I went to make a cup of tea, I noticed the mugs weren’t clean. In fact, none of the crockery was clean. Every single item in the kitchen needed a good wipe-down. The tiles, the cooker, the top of the fridge, the oven, the oven dishes, the pans, even the underside of the wall cupboards—everything was greasy, stained, or sticky. We had our work cut out for us!
The most annoying part? We were charged a cleaning fee. Yet the owners clearly didn’t bother to clean the place themselves. They also have a security bond from us—which I’d very much like to see returned when we leave.
Since moving in, we’ve discovered more issues. The kettle keeps boiling non-stop. The water tank leaks. The shower is about to fall off the wall. The desk was broken. The oven seal is worn out—potentially a fire hazard, as it gets very hot. Plates and cups are chipped and cracked. Honestly, the list just goes on.
Remind me—weren’t we told how lucky we were to have found this place?
A 5 minute walk offers stunning sunrises!
To speak up or not to speak up?
We’ve cleaned it up and can live with it for now. But the question is: how do we tell the owner her apartment isn’t up to standard? My Dutch instincts would be to just tell her directly. But my ever-polite British husband prefers a more reserved approach. I’m leaving it to him… though I’d really like my cleaning fee back.
Any tips—or horror stories—about dealing with bad rentals?
After spending just over 2 months in Moraira, we had planned a week in London to catch up with family. We flew from Alicante and therefore stayed a night in a hotel. As a result we had the perfect excuse to explore the city, and honestly, we were far from disappointed.
The night life is lively and there is plenty of it
Alicante is home to over 350,000 people and consequently, we expected it to be busy and chaotic. As an illustration our attempt to find the parking garage felt like a mini road trip in itself due to the many one-way streets and unexpected detours.
We booked a cute hotel without reception in the centre of town. Entry was via a code and our key cards were tucked away in a security box. Minimal, yet fast and efficient!
First Impressions: Sunshine, Palms, and a Brisbane Flashback
Alicante greeted us with palm-lined promenades, wide streets, grand architecture and that irresistible Mediterranean warmth. Having lived in Brisbane for 17 years, we felt right at home. There’s something about warm coastal cities that just oozes relaxation, like they’re permanently on holiday mode.
Grand building along the Esplanade de España
First stop: the Explanada de España, Alicante’s pedestrian-friendly promenade. It’s famous for its 6.5 million marble floor tiles, arranged in such a way that they create the illusion of movement. A surrealist’s dream—or a mild dizziness-inducing experience, depending on how long you stare at the ground.
Explanada de España, the place to ‘paseo’
Lined with cafes and restaurants, this is the prime location for the beloved Spanish paseo—that traditional evening stroll where locals hang out, chat, and probably judge tourists who walk too fast. Additionally the promenade also hosts art displays, live music, and, as we discovered, some enormous Moreton Bay fig trees.
Santa Cruz, the old barrio showing off their flower pots
This old quarter of the city, the barrio de Santa Cruz, nestled at the foot of Santa Bárbara Castle, is a maze of narrow, winding streets, tiny colourful houses, and an elaborate display of potted plants. Some homes have become minor tourist attractions thanks to their impressive plant collections, with one enterprising local hoping to get donations to maintain her vibrant mini-jungle.
A Tapas Experience… Gone Slightly Wrong
Alicante is teeming with cafes, tapas bars, and charming squares where one can sit, sip, and snack for hours. Finding a spot was easy—choosing one was the real challenge but we finally settled on a well-established, traditional tapas bar.
An authentic cafe at the Mercado of Alicante
Our waiter, clearly unimpressed by yet another pair of tourists, assigned us the worst seats in the house. Meanwhile, several adorable little tables stood mysteriously “reserved”—for whom, we’ll never know, as they remained empty throughout our stay. The tapas and wine were expensive but tasty.
Alicante: Easy to Love, Easier to Explore
Alicante stretches gracefully along the waterfront and it is one of those cities where walking is the best way to explore. The city has mastered the art of urban planning. We found shady parks with huge fig trees and family-friendly playgrounds often conveniently next to cafes.
Alicante stretches out along the coast
It’s also one of the driest cities in Europe, with water shortages being a genuine concern. We spotted a desalination plant en route to the airport—modern problems, modern solutions.
Fun Facts We Picked Up Along the Way:
Alicante has a well-known university with over 25,000 students (read: a lively nightlife scene).
It’s home to the European Union Intellectual Property Office
Its airport is busier than Valencia’s – must be due to Benidorm!
You can hop on a ferry to the Balearic Islands or even Algeria.
A tram runs all the way to Benidorm, should you fancy a beach-hopping adventure.
The city bursts into fiery celebration during the Bonfires of Saint John, a traditional summer solstice festival.
Nearly 20% of Alicante’s population is foreign, meaning you’ll hear more than just Spanish on the streets.
Alicante, I’ll Be Back
Although we only had one day to explore, Alicante left its mark. The warmth, the energy, the effortless blend of history and modern life—it all just clicked.
I have a feeling this was just the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
