Buying a House in Andalusia: The Plot Thickens

Buying a House in Andalusia: The Plot Thickens

For those who are just discovering me….welcome! My husband and I currently live in Limoux, southern France, but we are in the process of making a move to Spain. In fact, we are buying a house in Andalusia.

It all began in mid-May when my sister spotted a listing of a house near the stunning white village of Cómpeta. The plan is to buy the property together, and since she had more flexibility timewise, she flew to Málaga to check it out.

From four months visiting and researching the Costa Blanca, we were already well aware that buying in Spain is rarely straightforward. And surprise, surprise, we’ve had more than a few issues. So many, in fact, that we still haven’t signed the main purchase contract or paid the standard 10% deposit.

We did sign a reservation contract, which required a small deposit to take the house off the market. Thankfully, we hired a lawyer from the start, which turned out to be one of our better decisions. We have since uncovered things we didn’t even know we should be looking for.

What’s a DAFO, and Why Does It Matter?

Looking back, it seems even the current owner wasn’t aware of some of the issues. He bought the property in May 2025 through a forced bank sale, which often means a good deal, but sometimes comes with surprises.

In the autumn, he began a few formalities with the local council, including starting a DAFO process or so we were told. For anyone unfamiliar, a DAFO is a certificate confirming a rural property’s legal status, protecting it from fines or even demolition.

As it turns out, there was no DAFO process underway. Our lawyer did some digging and found that the process hadn’t even been initiated. It was the local technical architect who took the initiative, inspected the property, and came up with a list of requirements to obtain the DAFO.

It’s a fairly long list but luckily, we already knew (and accepted) over half of the needed improvements.

Buying a House in Andalusia Comes with Surprises

What we didn’t know? That we wouldn’t be able to get a water supply until the DAFO is approved. Bit of a red flag, especially since we will need water to do renovations. A proper Catch-22.

On top of that, the current septic tank doesn’t meet modern standards, and despite there being power sockets throughout the house, we apparently don’t have an electricity supply either. Yep, it is starting to sound like an off-grid project.

Still undeterred, we asked our lawyer to relay all this to the seller and get his perspective. After much back-and-forth, we’ve come to an agreement, albeit an unconventional one.

Buying a house in Andalusia? Here's our real-life journey—surprises, setbacks, and what we’ve learned from navigating the process in rural Spain
Aerial shot of the house we are chasing

An Unusual Agreement, and a Glimmer of Hope

The seller has agreed to:

  • Install a new septic tank and cover half the cost.
  • Get electricity connected.
  • Somehow, don’t ask us how, arrange a temporary water supply from the neighbour. (Are they old mates? Did he bribe them with olive oil? Who knows!)

On top of that, he’s willing to leave a significant sum, probably close to 20% of the purchase price, in an escrow account with our lawyer. If we don’t manage to secure the DAFO within a year, we will get that money back. Fair enough, considering we might be facing some extra costs.

Confused? Complicated? We are too! You might even be wondering why we’re going through with it at all…

Honestly, I’m just incredibly relieved we hired a lawyer—because there’s more to this story. But that’s for another time.

Stay tuned.

Marijke

lifestyle change, move to Andalusia, buying a house in Spain, selling a house in France
A New Chapter: From Limoux to Andalucía

A New Chapter: From Limoux to Andalucía

I’m in my sixties, we are starting a new chapter and life is shifting — again. After eight beautiful years in France, we are about to put our house in Limoux on the market and are preparing to begin a new adventure in southern Spain. Together with my sister, we’ve put down a reserve offer on a house near Cómpeta in Andalucía. As a matter of fact the Contracto de Arras is being prepared as we speak. It seems like it is really happening!

France was good to us. The rhythm of life in Limoux, the beautiful square – definitely one of the better ones in France, the wine, the landscape, the people — all part of a chapter we truly loved. But life evolves, and so do we. Our decision to move is a blend of practicalities, lifestyle choices, and the rising cost of living in France. Spain has been on the radar for a while, and it’s time to go for it.

Central Limoux, moving abroad, home town
Central Limoux – our hometown for 7 years
Limoux in summer, new chapter, home town
Il y a toujours une fête à Limoux – always something going on!

Our research so far

It all began with a winter trip in 2024, when we explored the region between Valencia and Castellón. Uninspired by what we found, we decided to head further south this year, spending four months exploring the Costa Blanca. We chose this area, hopeful it might finally offer what we were looking for.

Surprisingly, it didn’t. Lovely in several aspects, but not quite us for many reasons. Our search is complicated because we are looking for a property that can be divided in two independent sections – one for my sister and partner and one for us. Our research shifted further south although we always said that that the South of Spain might be too hot.

We discovered in the Costa Blanca that we don’t mind the heat after all we lasted in Brisbane for 17 years. We dislike cold, wind, grey skies—Limoux and Costa Blanca had too much of that this spring.

The whitewashed villages and rolling hills of Andalucía felt just right. Slower pace, warmer winters, and something that felt closer to the life we envision.

My sister found a place that ticked almost all the boxes, went to view it, and came back with a “yes.” We now will have a garden, a pool, olive and fruit trees. We’re not in a village but not isolated either — the best of both worlds. Cómpeta itself is a beautiful, white Andalusian town with a community feel and creative energy.

Embracing this new chapter with gusto!

The next few months will be all about transition: selling the house in France, downsizing, learning Spanish (I started in January and still have a long way to go), navigating tax and health systems, and of course — the actual move. All this while still working a 30-hour job. It’s going to be exciting, overwhelming – probably both.

This move isn’t just a relocation. It’s a deeper shift — toward community, simpler living, growing some of our own food, eating well, restoring a home with love and intention. It’s about carving out a wholesome and sustainable life in our later years.

This is the beginning of a new chapter. I’ll be sharing the process here — the ups and downs, the practical tips, and the joys of starting over in a new place. If you’re 50/60-plus and wondering whether such big changes are still possible — let me tell you, they are.

I’m living proof and I know I am not the only one!

Stay tuned!

Marijke

lifestyle change, move to Spain, buying a house in Spain, selling a house in France
After 16 Weeks in Spain – A Twist in Our House Hunt

After 16 Weeks in Spain – A Twist in Our House Hunt

After 16 weeks of exploring the Costa Blanca, our Spanish house hunt came to an end mid May – or did it not?

In my last blog post, I mentioned that we missed out on a house in Orxeta. Well, things took an unexpected turn: the buyer pulled out, and we suddenly had a chance to view the house after all.

A Second Chance in Orxeta

It was nearly perfect—great location, stunning views, and close to the charming village of Orxeta. We had a viewing and liked the house in many ways. To recap: we’re on a house hunt for a property that allows for two separate living spaces—one for my sister and her partner, and one for us.

This house technically offered that setup. In fact, the second “house” used to be a bar—and it still looked very much like one. It would take significant renovation to turn it into a home. The pool was also in poor condition, and to top it off, there was an issue with the septic tank.

In the end, we decided it would require too much cash and effort to make it in what we wanted. So, despite the near-perfect location, we passed.

Move to Spain, lifestyle change, midlife women
Changing our focus may be on the radar!

A Change of Direction

That decision left us feeling a little deflated. Was the Costa Blanca really the right area for us? It’s hard to explain—it was more of a gut feeling than anything concrete.

A few hints led us to start looking at Andalusia—initially just online, since it’s a six-hour drive away. Then my sister came across a very interesting property and sent it our way.

At that point, we were at the end of our four-month Spain journey. Energy and enthusiasm were running low. But something about this house told us it was worth looking into. My husband even considered driving the 600 km to see it. In the end, though, my work commitments and our upcoming return to France made that difficult.

So my sister took the reins and flew to Málaga to view the property.

During four month wec researched the Costa Blanca to see if it was a place where we wante to live
Changing our focus to Andalusia – impressive statue in Moraira.

Could This Be The End of our House Hunt?

They saw the property—and it immediately felt like it could be the one. It just wasn’t in Costa Blanca; it was in Andalusia. The house and land ticked nearly all the boxes—except one. It didn’t yet have a DAFO.

A DAFO is a certificate issued by the town hall confirming that a rural property is legal and won’t be subject to fines or demolition. It offers maximum security to the buyer. You can read more about it here.

Apparently, the DAFO was in the process of being issued. The catch was that no one could say when it would be finalised—meaning there was no way to guarantee when (or if) it would end up in our hands.

Now, none of us is familiar with the ins and outs of Spanish property law, rural zoning, or habitation certificates—and we didn’t want to fall into a trap. So we opted to hire a lawyer to take over and dig into the details.

Our House Hunt is Getting Serious

Five days later, we signed a reservation contract and paid a small deposit to take the house off the market. Our lawyer added a few protective clauses—if the DAFO didn’t come through, we’d have the right to withdraw or renegotiate.

That may sound easy—but believe me, it wasn’t.

My sister and her partner were on a roller coaster ride trying to get everything clarified and agreed upon. During that time, they stayed in nearby Cómpeta, in an Airbnb run by two guys who had appeared on A Place in the Sun. Cómpeta is one of those gorgeous white Andalusian villages. They met several locals, many of whom offered invaluable tips and insights about the area.

Lessons from the Road

That experience helped us make an informed decision when the ‘right’ house came along—even if it was in a different region than we originally imagined.

Villa Joiosa's colour fule houses
Villa Joiosa at the Costa Blanca is famous for its vibrant coloured houses
Sunrise from Altea
Sunrise view from Altea, a gorgeous white village on the Costa Blanca

So, to recap: we spent four months exploring the Costa Blanca, drove 6,000 km, visited dozens of towns and villages, and viewed several properties—without a concrete result. But we learned a lot along the way: what doesn’t work for us, how Spanish bureaucracy ticks, and what legal and logistical pitfalls to avoid.

That experience gave us the clarity and confidence to make an offer on this Andalusian home. With the help of a good lawyer, we knew exactly what we were getting into—and what needed to be double-checked.

The property ticks most of our boxes, and what’s missing can be addressed over time.

So… Mission Accomplished?

We’ll see when we have the keys!

Stay tuned.

Marijke

lifestyle change, move to Spain, buying a house in Spain, selling a house in France
Hinterland of Alicante – Spain beyond the postcards – week 13

Hinterland of Alicante – Spain beyond the postcards – week 13

Thinking of living in Spain? After 13 weeks exploring the Costa Blanca and the hinterland of Alicante, we learned that finding “the perfect place” is harder than it looks

In January this year, we set off to Spain, searching for the perfect place to live. After just over 3 months, we can now conclude: this road will not be an easy one.

We chose the Costa Blanca, as we had visited before and liked the vibe. Sure, it has Benidorm — but what in life is ever perfect?
The Marina Alta, with its charm, beautiful scenery, and cute towns, drew us in. We are not alone; the area is full of North Europeans who, like us, sought a different lifestyle — warmer, cheaper, or simply something new.

However, it seems we might have missed the boat, both financially and culturally. Spain has almost disappeared from this area, taken over by the Dutch and the Brits.

So, we decided to head further south and explore the hinterland around Villajoyosa and Alicante. We already checked out Castalla, Ibi, and Tibi — but for many reasons, it wasn’t our thing. One reason being the altitude of 700 meters: higher means colder, especially in winter — and escaping the cold was the whole idea!

Exploring the Alicante Hinterland: Aspe, Novelda, Monóvar, and More

This time, we picked an area right in Alicante’s backyard: Aspe, Novelda, Monóver, Monforte, and Agost.
Quite an ambitious list for one day, but we managed to visit them all — and were left feeling exhausted and a bit disillusioned.

Our first stop was Aspe, with around 20,000 inhabitants. Parking was easy, and the centre pleasantly surprised us.
It ticked many of our “must-have” boxes: a market, lively cafés on every corner, a gorgeous square with a lovely church, lush trees, a few cafés, and a pretty park with a fountain. I could easily imagine bubbly summer nights here.
We had an excellent coffee — just €1.30 — and noticed we were likely the only English speakers around. Full of hope, we moved on!

Imagine balmy summer nights…..

Only 4 or 5 km down the road was Novelda. Again, parking was easy, but the first impression was very different.
Street after street of parked cars, a random shop here and there, but not much else. No cute cafés, no hidden nooks, no real centre.
Eventually, we found a square with a church and a few attractive pedestrian streets — but it all felt a bit empty, lacking soul.
Surprising, as Novelda is bigger than Aspe, with 27,000 inhabitants.

Novelda, moving to Spain, hinterland alicante
According to some – a lively town

Monóvar, Monforte, and Agost: Hopes and Realities

Onwards to Monóvar, a town of just over 12,000 people.
Again, it had the same uninspiring grid of streets. The historical centre was worth a walk — lots of steps, a scenic church, a castle, and plenty of cats. Yet again, there wasn’t much soul. Not many cosy cafés or spots to enjoy our picnic lunch. A Spanish lady asked me if I liked their “pretty town” — I wasn’t sure what to say.

Monóvar, moving to Spain
A hike up to the church was part of the deal

We quickly drove through Monforte without stopping — it didn’t feel like we needed to see more — and finally arrived in Agost. At 376 meters altitude and just under 5,000 inhabitants, Agost is quite a cute town.
It has a long pottery tradition, with 11 active potteries and even a pottery walking trail. All in all, not bad — but again, it didn’t quite pull us in either.

Agost, hinterland Alicante, moving to Spain
Town of potteries

By then, we decided we had earned a sunny terrace and a cold beer.

Final Thoughts: A Challenging Search

Our verdict? This area has some decent towns, but the immediate surroundings are less attractive.
The valley is wide and flat, and although the towns sit lower (300–400 meters) than Castalla and Ibi (700 meters), the landscape felt somewhat desolate.
There are many quarries, mines, and marble industries around Novelda and Monóver, making the surroundings messy and dry — less trees, more bush.

Interestingly, AI and some travel blogs seem more positive about this area. Maybe they see it through the eyes of a tourist?
We are exploring these places to live year-round, which is a very different lens.

Aspe? I would consider visiting again — it showed potential.
Agost? Too small, and likely touristy in summer.
The others? They didn’t convince me.

Call me difficult, but it has to feel right — this might be our last move after all!

Stay tuned for more!

Marijke

hinterland of Alicante, lifestyle change,  ideal lifestyle,
Benidorm – Against All Odds, I Went – week 12

Benidorm – Against All Odds, I Went – week 12

This week, I visited Benidorm, a place that was never even close to making my travel wish list. But when you’re staying nearby and you’d like to form an actual opinion—not just repeat what others say—you kind of have to do it!

Yes, really….Benidorm.

The ever changing skyline of Albir, Benidorm and Altea.

We’re currently staying near Altea, and from where we are, Benidorm’s high-rise skyline is clearly visible on the horizon. It actually reminds me a bit of the Gold Coast in Australia which we have seen plenty of times when our kids grew up. I have taken a few photos of that skyline, and it genuinely seems to change every time we look at it—light, weather, mood—it’s always a little different.

After three weeks of watching it from afar, we finally decided to take a closer look. It was Good Friday—always a bit of a wildcard when it comes to outings. But the drive in turned out to be less hectic than expected. Honestly, we expected a slow procession of cars heading for the center, but this time, it was smooth sailing.

A Few Quick Facts About Benidorm:

  • It has a population of just under 75 k.
  • In summer, that number skyrockets to over 400k—possibly to levels best described as “bursting at the seams.”
  • Facilities? Let’s just say, if you need it, Benidorm probably has it.

First impressions

As we approached the town, our first impression was that it looked like a typical Spanish city. You don’t immediately see the towering high-rises unless you catch a glimpse down one of the side streets. We managed to park in a covered garage quite close to the center—plenty of spaces and no stress.

From there, we strolled towards the beach, aiming to find the “old town” that several people had recommended. We wandered through a few lively streets, passed numerous shops and cafés, and eventually arrived at the beachfront. But somewhere along the way, we seemed to have missed what we thought would be a quaint, historic district.

Where is the old town?

It’s possible that we expected something similar to Altea’s old town, with cobbled lanes, flower-draped balconies, and a certain charm. What we found was more of a bustling commercial hub—restaurants, pubs, souvenir shops, and everything in between. It certainly caters to the crowds, which, judging by the numbers, it handles with ease.

Benidorm
Peace and quiet! Not on this beach…..

And speaking of crowds… the beach was absolutely packed. It honestly reminded me of Bondi Beach in Sydney on Christmas Day which we experienced before having kids. The weather was glorious, and clearly, everyone had the same idea.

We continued exploring and discovered another bay just around the headland—again, wall-to-wall sunseekers. In between is a lovely lookout point, a mirador built on the site of what was once a castle. It offered stunning views of the coast either way and was clearly a popular photo stop.

Balcon de benidorm
El Mirador de Benidorm – one of the city’s landmarks
Costa Blanca, looking South
Looking south towards Alicante

Benidorm’s shopping streets are extensive, with a mix of local and international brands. And like Alicante, it has ‘eat streets’—entire stretches where one restaurant follows another. While exploring those, we noticed something interesting: tapas and pintxo bars were mostly filled with locals and Spanish holidaymakers, while the establishments serving fry-ups, burgers, and pizzas had a distinctly North European clientele.

Benidorm – final thoughts!

We spent a few hours in Benidorm and came away slightly surprised—and a little amused—by our experience. Would I choose to holiday there? No, not really. But oddly enough, I wouldn’t mind spending some time there under the right circumstances.

Spanish food, Pintxos, eat what the locals eat
This could entice me for another visit!!

Here’s why:

  • In the city center, you’re not really aware of the skyscrapers or the overcrowded beaches.
  • If you find the local spots, you’re surrounded by Spanish speakers and tasty spanish food, not sunburnt tourists on a mission.
  • And if you look past the obvious tourist zones, it starts to feel like a regular Spanish town—one where people live, work, and go about their day.

One thing to be clear about: we visited during Easter. I’m not sure I’d be quite as relaxed about the idea if it were peak summer.

Would I return in July or August to find out?
Let’s just say—I’m quite happy not knowing.

🧐 Handy Tip:
If you’re driving in, aim for the parking garages near the center—they’re easier and less stressful than circling endlessly in the heat.

Stay tuned.

Marijke

lifestyle change, searching for the ideal lifestyle, benidorm