After visiting Calpe, we realised that we are drawn to a more authentic Spain. So, we decided to turn our focus inland.
Don’t get me wrong, we love Moraira – it is charming, coastal, and buzzing with life. After all, that’s exactly why it has attracted so many Dutch, English, Germans, and even some French expats. The house prices are well beyond our budget and we doubt if you could consider it authentic Spain.
Marina Alta – more authentic Spain??
The area inland of Moraira called Marina Alta has a lot to offer. It is very pretty with rolling hills that are perfect for hiking and cycling. Several villages caught our eye and Jalon, Parcent and Alcalalí were the first ones to check out.
Our plan was to visit Jalon first but it turned out that the weekly brocante market was in full swing. Parking was a nightmare and we kept driving to the next town – Alcalalí.
Along the way, we passed dozens of cyclists. If we lived here, we have to accept that they would be a constant presence. They seem to keep to their own set of traffic rules and overtaking them with the required 1.5m distance on these narrow roads is not an easy task.
Alcalalí – small but ticking many boxes
Alcalalí sits in the Pop Valley of the Marina Alta Region and it is about 20 km from the coast. We have learned that we rarely go to the beach when it is around 50 km away and 20 km is totally doable.
It’s a small town of 1,500 people, with colourful houses and a lot of construction. It felt like a giant work-in-progress. Shops were sparse, most cafés were closed, and yet, it had a certain charm. We spotted a gorgeous garden cafe but sadly, it didn’t open until noon. You would think with all the cyclists around, more places would cater to them early! On our way to Parcent, we did pass two cycling cafes that were open and as expected packed with cyclists.
Could Parcent be authentic Spain?
On to historical Parcent – 25 km from Moraira, a small originally Moorish town of 1100 people with cute narrow streets. It’s famous for its Rates de Parcent, a must-do cycling pass with it viewpoint Mirador del Coll.
Locals greeted us with friendly buenos, and we found a charming community hall café with a sunny terrace. Again, not much was open until midday, but the town had a great feel.
Fun fact: A coffee in Parcent can cost as little as €1.20, while trendy cycling cafés charge up to €2.60.
Despite its small size, Parcent has all the essentials: shops, bakeries, doctors, and pharmacies. It’s even considered very Spanish—though a 2006 census showed that 35% of residents are Northern European. They must have integrated well!
Writer Gabriel Miró called Parcent “a paradise between the mountains.” We now get why!
Jalon
Back to Jalon, hoping for a parking spot and luckily, we found one at the inland edge of town. The market was fantastic, reminding us of some of our favourite markets in Esperaza, France or Eumundi in Australia. It was set along the river, surrounded by lively restaurants and cafés. Obviously it was packed, so we skipped exploring the old town and hope to save it for a quieter day.
Jalon is only a 20 minute drive to the coast, has a wine cooperative and many lively spots for a bite to eat.
We learned a few things
- We like living in a wine region. Limoux is a wine paradise and we love it. The Marina Alta is a wine region.
- We like the beach within reach – ideally not further than 20 km
- We don’t want to be isolated and we want access to medical services and supermarkets.
- This region is a cyclist paradise – great for exercise and people-watching as pro cyclists train here in winter!
- The Marian Alta has no heavy industry nor pollution as you see when driving towards Valencia
- Surrounded by beautiful hilly areas for walks and hiking
Visiting these towns have definitely given us an idea about a more authentic Spain, and we have only just begun.
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Stay tuned
Marijke
